Balenciaga Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Nicolas Ghesquière has decided the world has quite enough cocktail wear to be getting along with. “I wanted to do something urban. No more history for the moment!” he said backstage at the Hôtel de Crillon, before sending out a collection that reclaimed the beat of street athleticism: the hoodie (done here as a highly structured paneled leather vest); skinny, vertically patchworked jeans; complex tanks; and sporty kilts. Take it as read that we’re not looking at generics. Every silhouette, each garment, every extraordinary tubular-ankled, open-toed boot is an uncopyable meld of futuristic technique and art craftsmanship. The quality defines Ghesquière’s Balenciaga as unique.
Take the “jeans.” What looks, at a distance, as if it might be gray-blue denim is actually vegetable-dyed leather. The “hoodie” is engineered from molded leather, woven jersey, and nylon foam. The ankle sections of the boots are either hand-loomed fabric or a meltdown of blue, white, and green strips of leather, laser-compressed into a striated amalgam that looks, as Ghesquière joked, “like Play-Doh.” (He likes a toy reference in a shoe.)